Specifications:
Case diameter: 42.5mm
Case thickness: 13.25mm
Movement: Automatic
Band width: 22mm
Lug to lug: 46mm
Lug width: 22mm
Water resistance: 200M
Crystal: Mineral Hardlex
The Seiko SKX in its current design started in 1996, but its heritage really goes back to the 1960’s with the 62 MAS which was the start of the line preceding what would eventually lead to the SKX007 and its many variants.
The Seiko SKX comes in a variety of models from ones with black, blue, yellow and orange dials. It even comes in different sizes. I believe the most common of the later models are the SKX 007, the SKX 009, and the SKX 013. The 007 is the most iconic, but there are plenty of aficionados of all models.
Seiko History
Seiko’s origin started in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a shop in Tokyo selling and repairing watches and clocks. If, like me, you thought of Seiko as a budget watch manufacturer, you would be as wrong as I was.
Seiko has a rich tradition of producing superb time pieces and own brands such as Credor, Pulsar, Lorus, Alba, Orient and Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko produces some of the finest watches in the world. Seiko knows how to make a watch. Seiko has been the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games, FIFA World Cup, and IAAF World Championships.
Some of Seiko’s accomplishments for dive watches are:
- Introduction of the world’s first quartz watch – 1969
- World’s first diver’s watch with a titanium case – 1975
- World’s first Diver’s 1000M watch with a ceramic outer case – 1986
- Introduction of the world’s first computerized diver’s watch with dive table and depth meter functions – 1990
Case
I am a big fan of the case on the SKX. It is somewhat of a work of art in my opinion. It is curvy and rounded, really one of a kind. It has a mix of polished and brushed stainless surfaces. This design has been copied over and over so Seiko must have done something right.
The case back features the iconic Seiko wave.
Crown
I would call this a proper screw in crown for a dive watch. It is guarded on both sides by the unique crown guards.
There is no logo on it, but it is machined and large enough that manipulating it is a breeze.
Crystal
The SKX sports a Mineral Hardlex crystal. The first time I heard of that I wondered what it was as well. Mineral Hardlex is Seiko’s proprietary mineral crystal that is harder than a mineral crystal, but not as hard as a sapphire.
Hardlex is a seven on the Mohs scale of hardness as where a sapphire is a nine. A diamond is a 10 and a normal mineral crystal is a five. Although hardlex is not as scratch resistant as sapphire, it is supposed to be more impact resistant. I am completely happy with the hardlex crystal in mine, and should it ever scratch significantly I am just going to pop in an aftermarket sapphire crystal.
Bezel
The bezel on the SKX functions great, it is relatively easy to turn and has no back play or wobble. It has plenty of grip with bare hands, and is functional with gloves. It is very smooth.
If I was going to do a lot of cold water diving I would probably get an aftermarket bezel with a more grippy or machined surface.
The insert is aluminum with a pip. Works great. Again, you can upgrade this as well.
Lume
In my opinion the lume on the SKX is among the best you will find out there.
Dial
The SKX dial is basic, legible and uncomplicated. What I mean by that is it’s not fancy, but at this price point you aren’t going to get jeweled hand applied indices. It does what it’s supposed to do, be legible while in an underwater environment where visibility can sometimes be less than optimal.
It does feature a day/date complication which performs flawlessly.
Hands
I like the hands on the SKX, they are not the basic hands you see on most watches, and they are filled full of luminous paint. These hands are easily readable both day and night.
I would like to see the minute hand outlined in orange, but that’s just my own personal preference.
Bracelet/Strap
The SKX comes with either the Jubilee bracelet or a rubber strap. The Jubilee bracelet is a love it or hate it affair. It is not a precision bracelet, that much is evident. Yet is has a certain charm about it. Many SKX owners love their Jubilee bracelets.
I think you have to try one before you decide. I find with most watches in this price range I wind up changing the bracelet anyway. There are plenty of excellent bracelets available that are specifically made for the SKX.
The rubber strap is your basic rubber strap. It is worth it to note that I personally am also not a big fan of rubber straps, but some people love them. A strap or bracelet is a very personal decision. Don’t knock the SKX because the of the bracelet or strap, some people absolutely love them.
I am partial to oyster style bracelets or NATO straps. I seem to wear my SKX with a NATO strap much of the time, but obviously you have your own preferences, as you should.
You can see mine came with the rubber strap, and I have been wearing it that way for about four months. I’m not a fan. I’ll be putting a NATO strap, silicone strap or maybe even an aftermarket bracelet on it in short order.
Movement
The SKX features a 7s26 automatic movement. This movement has been around for more than 30 years. It is accurate and reliable.
What the movement does not include is hacking and hand winding. Most modern automatic movements have the ability to hand wind, and hack but this one doesn’t. I would like to have this feature, but it’s not that big of a deal.
If it bothers you that much, after a while you can replace the movement with one that does.
Wrist Presence
The 007 feels exactly like a 43mm watch on wrist. It’s over 13mm thick, so you definitely know you are wearing it. This is not a dainty watch. As mentioned previous, I’m not a fan of the rubber watch, silicone, NATO, or a bracelet is the way to go.
You probably aren’t going to sneak this under shirt sleeves on a dress shirt. This is a jeans and t-shirt watch.
ISO Rating
The Seiko SKX does indeed meet ISO 6425 specifications to 200 meters. Which means Seiko tests them to 25% greater depth than the rating on the watch dial. If you are not familiar with the ISO 6425 rating please see my blog post explanation. The bottom line is 99.9% of scuba divers will never approach the depth the SKX can handle.
Aftermarket Modifications
One of the many things the Seiko SKX has going for it that no other watch in the world has is the amount of aftermarket modifications that are available for it. Bracelets, crystals, bezels, bezel inserts, dials, crowns, straps, hell you can even change the movement if you want. Companies have even come up with aftermarket cases you can buy. As of this writing I am looking for a used SKX on eBay to purchase just so I can modify it. You can find heavily modded SKX’s on eBay that cost nearly $1000. I’m not sure if that is worth it to me, but whatever floats your boat.
Discontinued
As of mid to late 2019 the word on the street is that the Seiko SKX is discontinued. I’m sure it will take many months if not a year to go through all of the new stock that has been manufactured. You can pick up a new one right now on Amazon.
However, as with anything in limited supply, the cost has started rising. It will be interesting to see if the price rises then plateaus. The Seiko SKX has such a cult following I really don’t see the prices falling off the edge of a cliff. As an amateur economist it will be interesting to see.
Pros
Tons of aftermarket options
ISO rating
Proven design for form and function
Iconic classic dive watch
Cons
Prices are rising, although I think they will stabilize.
Some people aren’t fans of the movement because it doesn’t hand wind and hack.
Final Thoughts
I think a Seiko SKX belongs in anyone’s collection. Even if you aren’t a collector, but you’re just looking for a solid dive watch at a reasonable price, it’s a great choice. The Seiko SKX is an iconic watch with a cult following that will always hold its value.
If I was going to compare the SKX to a truck it would be the Toyota Hilux of watches. If you aren’t familiar with the Hilux, it is an iconic Japanese truck that is basically indestructible.
If you wind up destroying it in 15 or 20 years, and I think it would take that long to destroy it, it would be money well spent. I would guess there will always be someone out there selling parts for it.
It may just last the rest of your life.